A nectar for sipping or saving from Southwestern France

Sweet! In every nuance of the expression, that's the luxurious "Folie de Janvier," from Domaine Cauhapé in the southwestern French region of Jurançon.

Like the celebrated sweet wines of Sauternes, which by no means outclass this one, "Folie de Janvier" is made from the concentrated juice of grapes kept on the vine until they've turned into raisins. In this case, the grape is the petit manseng, and in the hands of Domaine Cauhapé's owner-winemaker Henri Ramonteu, the honeyed extract becomes a nectar to seduce the senses.

The 2000 "Folie de Janvier" - the name translates freely as "January Caprice" - presents an opulent flavor blend of honey, spices and white pepper, plus a hint of butterscotch. Its silky smooth texture fills the mouth and ensures a long, long finish.

Ramonteu only makes the "Folie de Janvier" in top vintages, and production is quite small. Aging in 100 percent new oak enhances the wine's complexity, which in turn provides a potential for cellar aging that Ramonteu says is virtually limitless. The proud vigneron declares his prize cuvée a match for the great Château d'Yquem itself, and it's hard to argue with that assessment.

We can offer the 2000 Domaine Cauhapé "Folie de Janvier" for $165 per bottle. It makes fabulous drinking now, but a few bottles put back would promise greater rewards down the road.